The Lightly Tailored Sweater: The Unique Advantages of Subtle Shaping

Subtle Shaping follows your curves, but without the fully tailored look. Without getting deep into the math of it, think of this option as existing somewhere between Full Shaping and No Shaping. Light shaping and tailoring in knitting has been done before through modifications and math, but this is the first time it’s been so easy to experience the advantages of subtle shaping using quick and easy technology.

If you haven’t yet, please start by reading our overview on shaping, below. This will provide an overview of the concept of shaping.

Understanding the Advantages of Subtle Shaping

Do you want a garment that is somewhere between unshaped and tailored to your measurements? Elect for Subtle Shaping. Subtle Shaping means that the shape of the garment follows the shape of your body, but with subtler angles than with Full Shaping.

When you select Subtle Shaping in KnitFit™, the pattern generator considers the difference between your bust and waist in order to calculate instructions for a garment that fits convex areas and essentially splits the difference in concave areas. The result is a shaped garment with an accurate fit, but with less dramatic changes in circumference throughout the torso. Subtle Shaping gives a great fit because not only will you have custom sizing working for you, but you’ll have a bit of shaping to match your unique body!

The Key Advantages of Subtle Shaping

While traditional patterns can give you a pattern for a sweater that fits your bust and achieves the amount of ease you like, is that really enough? Our bodies are unique, and for many of us, our bust measurement does not represent our waist and hip measurement.

The advantages of Subtle Shaping are many, but the main thing to know is that when you add this shaping option to your pattern, you get a pattern that changes in circumference according to the actual measurements of your torso at three different points. That means the garment fits you at every part of your body, not just your bust! And because this is Subtle Shaping rather than Full Shaping, your garment will follow your body, but not so intricately that you end up with prominent curves in the fabric, but rather with a garment the flows easily with your curves.

Considerations When Choosing Subtle Shaping

Applying the Advantages of Subtle Shaping

It helps to begin by visualizing the design you’ve chosen on your body. Start by imagining your finished sweater without shaping. Draw a quick sketch if you have trouble visualizing this. While imagining this finished object, ask yourself the following questions:

Does the garment fit accurately throughout your entire torso, or will there be areas with loose fabric?

Subtle Shaping works well on almost all pattern types and sweater constructions in knitting. It’s a great help when there is a big difference between various points on your body. Think about whether there is a difference in circumference between bust, waist, and hips. These body types and many others need some degree of shaping to avoid lots of extra fabric, but might not want Full Shaping for various reasons. Where Full Shaping may result in sharper angles throughout the torso to match your body measurements, Subtle Shaping is your go-to for more understated angles.

Front / Back Width and Subtle Shaping

How Advantages of Subtle Shaping Interact with Front and Back Width

Traditional patterns divide the body circumference in half and allot half for front and half for back. This can often result in not enough fabric in front and too much fabric in the back. As with Full Shaping, Subtle Shaping calculates front and back increases and decreases separately. This ensures that the ease and fit of the finished sweater follows your body measurements. 

Ease and Subtle Shaping

When opting for Subtle Shaping, feel free to add up to 4 inches of ease. This is especially appropriate if you plan on layering shirts underneath your knitted garment. Use less ease, such as 2—3 inches, if you want shaping to accommodate certain areas and feel more comfortable in a loose garment.

As for fiber choice, any fiber type is recommended.

Actualizing the Advantages of Subtle Shaping

Choose Subtle Shaping When the Garment…

• Will be layered over another shirt
• Gently follows curves
• Is shaped, but in an understated way
• Has any construction—cardigan, top-down, pullover…
• Knit with any yarn

Subtle shaping is almost always a solid option, but depending on the pattern, you should also consider our two other options: Full Shaping and No Shaping.

For an overview of Shaping in general, please review The Ultimate Guide to Personalized Shaping for Your Knitting Patterns

Once you’ve settled on your shaping option, head over to the app to try it out. KnitFit™ is FREE for one project and we’ve got plenty of free custom patterns you can try!

Learn more skills for getting a great fit in your hand-knits: Subscribe to KnitFit™ Blog!